== from nicoclub forum..
One of the most infuriating portions of my turbo quest has been figuring out what parts I need/have. Thus, as an addition to my NA->Turbo SR DIY, I figure a more organized parts list would be a good idea.
So, this is that list, divided into sections. I’m listing what is absolutely necessary to make the car run and be drivable, then the recommended list is to make it perform to it’s full potential.
Filter – Any will do. Remember, this air is going through your turbo into your engine, keep that in mind.
MAF – Stock works unless you’re running lots of boost, then a Z32 MAF is a good bet.
Intake tube – This should include a recirc point for the BOV and a line for the valve cover breather.
Turbo – Your choice, bigger turbos mean more air, which means more fuel and possibly more management work. For those of you running off of Nissan Parts Bin kits, keep in mind that Bluebird and Avenir T25s are different, with Avenirs having ball-bearings and a higher wastegate actuator setting stock (9psi instead of 7).
edit: If you get an Avenir T25, check the part number. W11 Avenirs are ball-bearing, but older (W10) Avenirs are not. The W10s have the following part number:
Turbo out pipe – Personally, I like how mine comes down off the turbo and towards the passenger side for my routing. I was even able to keep the AC so as to keep the ladies happy. However, I see lots of setups where it comes up and over the exhaust manifold, then down and around the front. Your choice.
Intercooler piping – Your size should match your turbo/boost level. For low boost applications, 2.25in will keep boost response up and leave a little room for more, but for those of you who like big turbos, invest in bigger piping. I run 2.5in for a 10psi T25 and get great response, for reference. There are piping kits available. Another option is to buy some stainless steel or aluminum exhaust piping with several 90* bends, a 45* or a few if needed, and some straight pipe.
Intercooler – This should also match your turbo. Try to match the in/out size to the IC piping you’re running. Get a core that matches your hp goals. Most are advertised with the power they can support. Also keep in mind that huge ICs can cause pressure drop and cover up your radiator, increasing engine temps. FMICs are a good bet, but TMICs are more stealthy, though prone to heatsoak. A sidemount would be tough to fit.
BOV – Get whatever you want. If you get a Nissan one with your setup, you might as well keep it. It’s noisy enough to give you a smirk on shifts, but quiet enough to keep the sleeper effect somewhat plausible (as if an intercooler grinning under the bumper doesn’t advertise what’s up …). This is all a matter of personal taste, they all work the same. RECIRCULATE, please.
Misc. – Various hoses and silicon connectors for the pipes and tubes you need. A recirc line, IACV line, wastegate line, vc breather line (Get an oil catch can!), and that funny other line to the bottom of the intake mani near the TB for you B13/14 SR people. Sizes vary, measure your inputs/outputs and get however many feet you need.
Manifold – Whatever comes with your setup. Make sure it matches your turbo, the output to T25/T28/etc is different than T3/T4/etc turbos. Also note that if you want to use a T28 and a Nissan manifold, only GTi-R and Avenir manifolds will allow the T28 to clear the block.
Wastegate – Your call. If your turbo comes with one, use it, but if you want bigger, get a bigger one.
Downpipe – If your setup comes with a turndown off the turbo, use it unless you want more room. Everything should be at least 2.5in, preferably 3 if you’re running much boost. Make sure to have two O2 bungs, one for your 1st O2 and the other for a wideband so you can tune. Backpressure is bad.
Catback – This should match the size of the downpipe. Bigger is pointless, smaller is stupid. Get one that flows well with straight through cores, that sort of thing. Keep in mind that this thing will be LOUD, so a resonator is recommended both for volume and tone. Without resonators, most cars sound tinny and ricetastic, and Sentras/NXs/whatever are no exceptions. Your resonator should be straight-through as well for best flow. I’ll go ahead and say that my BRM from our beloved owner Greg sounds great and flows well. Backpressure is bad. OBDII folks, keep in mind that you need to move your 2nd O2 bung behind the cat to stay legal.
To make this clear, BACKPRESSURE IS BAD FOR TURBOS.
Injectors – Get injectors to match your boost level. Below 12psi, 370ccs will work. 34lb (360cc) MSDs are a good choice for top-feed people (B15), 370s from any other SR do nicely for side-feed people (B13/14). For higher boost, 50lb MSDs (B15) do nicely. Most B13/14 people get a top-feed fuel rail when they get to needing more than 370s. I believe JWT can help you out, or whatever source you may be able to find. I’ve heard of people making their own.
Computer – A piggyback like an SAFCII does the trick. Check the recommended list about this.
Wastegate control – If you’re using a wastegate actuator that came with your turbo, just hook up the line and go. Those of you with boost controllers, read the instruction manual and bear in mind that more boost requires more fuel and management, as well as increases the wear and tear on your engine components. B15 guys, bear in mind that roller-rocker SRs do not have quite as strong of pistons/rods and have more of a tendency to shoot rocker arms at high rpms.
Misc.: Besides the aforementioned hoses, you will need…
Oil – An oil feed line of whatever size matches your turbo outlet and the hole you’ve tapped on the block. A multiport T off the sending unit is another must so you can feed the turbo. SPL has one with two ports, one for the engine, another for the turbo. Nissport and Tuner Toys make them with more ports.
Coolant – Lines for coolant, some rubber fuel hose from NAPA is cheap and easy.
Fittings – This is probably the biggest pain I ran into. If you have an aircraft supply shop nearby, you’re in luck. ATPturbo.com has basically every fitting you need. It’s kind of confusing still. With the T25, the oil inlet is -3AN. Ask people who have whatever turbo you have what fittings you need and be prepared to order/go hunting for these.
Injector connectors – If you’re running MSDs bear in mind that they have a different plug on them that you’ll need to solder into your wiring harness.. Autozone has the part, it’s a GP Sorenson, part # 800-9213. Each Autozone will have one, at best, so be prepared to run around a bit or have them transfer them in from other stores. You need 4, one for each injector.
And now, the recommended list…
Boost gauge – My VDO was something like $30, then I got a mounting cup for it. Works well, easily visible. I need to wire it up so I can see it at night. You’ll need another hose for this, run it through the firewall on the passenger side near the glovebox, there’s a grommet there you can pull out. Keep in mind that where it taps into determines whether you get vacuum or not. I suggest tapping in near the TB for the most useful measurement. Using a QuickTap from ATP will make this easy, as it just slids into one of your IC connectors. Your call.
Fuel pump – A Walbro 255lph is a good call. B13/14 guys have specific part #s, but there is no listing for B15s. B15 guys, either use a B14 pump (apparently it fits rather easily, I’m trying to dig up the install info for when I do this myself) or the in-line kit, PTI has both. Without this part you’ll more than likely get an A/F spike at about 5200rpm (max power, oddly enough) to 12.5 no matter what you do with the SAFC, though it falls back to 11.5:1 (what we want) by 6000rpm and stays steady to redline. Mine spikes to 12.9 on occasion and that causes some detonation with the stock pump. Point being, if you can’t afford/find a pump right now, either don’t do the install or don’t wind it out. Trust me, there’s plenty of fun to be had in 3rd and 4th gear on winding backroads at 3000-4500rpm.
FPR – NISMO is a good choice, but they’re not cheap. Your call. You’ll need this to get the pressure right with that big pump, otherwise you’ll run stupid rich.
Management – B15 guys, look into getting a JWT-tuned B14 ECU and rewiring to run it, B15 SR ECUs cannot be tuned. B13/14 guys, look into getting your ECU tuned by JWT. This way, the piggyback is just for fine tuning, rather than for the livelihood of the engine. Be careful with your ECU or it might decide it hates you and randomly malfunction (don’t ask me how I know).
Suspension: A good shock/spring combo is definitely a good idea to keep you on the road with the new power. I like my Koni Yellow/Eibach Sportline combo. Coilovers would be even better. I hear good things about JICs (especially the FLTA2s) and TEINs, and lots of arguments about K-Sports. Many guys swear by Yellows and Ground Controls, claiming better handling than the coilover boys.
Wheels/Tires – Wheels should suit your style and budget, but more importantly, they should have space for the rubber you need to keep that power going to the ground. For B13/14 guys, you don’t have as much room in the fenderwells, so a 15X7 or 16X7 would be great, though it may rub a little depending on your suspension. B15 guys get their one and only break here. With my Koni/Eibach setup, a drop of 1.5in and with not a whole lot of wheel travel, I easily fit 17X7s with 215/45/17s. NISMO wheels are 17X7.5, which would give you the option of a 225 series tire, though this will be close to rubbing, depending on suspension. As tires go, the stickier the better. Azenis are a good bet, but if you want to drive this thing year round and as a daily, and are budget conscious, I have to recommend some Falken Ziex Ze 512s. They handle my power for the most part (though wet+turning+WOT and we’re off to crazy wheelspin land, even with the LSD), and RED_DET, our mod here, runs them around his 15″s on his B13 with 278whp with no complaints, wow. $74/tire for 215/45/17s and even cheaper for smaller sizes.
LSD – A limited slip is your new friend. Get one if you didn’t have one stock.
Brakes – Please get some better stopping power. If nothing else, get some Hawk HPS pads. This isn’t really necessary, but, like suspension, you need some way of keeping control with the added power. I went for a pretty strong route with Brembo slotted rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and Technafit SS lines all around. I also run ATE Super Blue fluid. Speedbleeders will make this install easier. As I said though, some good pads will do the trick, make sure to bed them properly.
Transmission – B15 guys, you’re in luck. B15s have the strongest trannies of USDM Sentras. P11 G20s share this transmission. B13/14 guys don’t have this, but the stock transmission will hold quite a lot of power (RED is on the stock one with, as mentioned, 278whp). If your tranny is on the way out, look into getting a B15 or JDM one. However, everyone should look for a new clutch. My stock clutch is holding pretty well, but I don’t think it’ll last long. Look at the advertised power levels and get what suits your setup.
Lots of guys swear by the virtues of EGT gauges, being it that EGT is often a good measure of what’s going on with combustion. Other gauges to look at would be Oil Temp and Oil Pressure, a better Water Temp gauge, Tranny Temp, and A/F Ratio.
A shortshifter wouldn’t be a bad idea either, mostly because they’re just that much fun.
Good fluids like Redline synthetic tranny oil, Redline Water Wetter, and Mobil1 Synthetic engine oil are always a good idea.
Those of you with G20s, things I mention for B15s also apply to P11 G20s (1999+) while B13/14 notes apply to P10 (before ’99) G’s. This includes engine and transmission issues. Suspensions are different.
Good luck and have fun! Once you get the parts, check out the install DIY in the Sentra section.